So if you meet a Colombian woman today—if she offers you coffee even if you said no, if she talks about her mom like she’s a saint, if she tears up at the sound of a tiple —now you know why. She was that little girl once.
As a little girl, I thought everyone lived like this—everyone knew how to make sancocho from scraps, how to dance mapalé without lessons, how to mourn a loss over tinto and pan de bono by noon, and be dancing by nightfall. Let me walk you through one Sunday. as a little girl growing up in colombia
, I didn’t have a phone, an iPad, or even a color TV for most of those years. But I had that. And that was everything. The Myths We Believed We believed that El Hombre Caimán (The Alligator Man) lived in the Magdalena River and would turn you into a reptile if you bathed after 3 PM. We believed that finding a mopa-mopa (a sticky tree resin figure) in your shoe meant good luck for the harvest. We believed that if you didn’t finish your caldo de costilla , the Patasola (a one-legged forest spirit) would lick your ankles at midnight. So if you meet a Colombian woman today—if
To paint a picture of that childhood is to dip a brush in colors that don’t exist anywhere else. It is not the Colombia of news headlines or Netflix narcoseries. It is the Colombia of foggy mornings in the altiplano , the scent of guava and wet earth, and the sound of my aunt’s voice singing while she ironed ruanas . As a little girl growing up in Colombia , my first lullabies weren’t soft. They were loud. Not violent—just vivo . The crack of a chiva bus backfiring on a cobblestone hill. The pock-pock-pock of my mother patting masa into arepas at 6 AM. The metallic cling of an aguardiente bottle cap hitting the floor during a parranda . Let me walk you through one Sunday
But here is what I also learned: resilience is not a grand speech. It is my mother waking up at 4 AM to sell empanadas at the bus terminal so I could have a new notebook. It is my abuela turning a single chicken into a three-course meal (soup, main, and fricasé leftovers). It is every costeño on the Caribbean coast laughing harder than anyone else the day after a hurricane.
I never did. Our house in a small pueblo outside Bogotá had no central heating. It didn’t need it. The cold came straight from the páramo , biting my ears as I walked to school in a navy blue skirt and wool tights. But the cold was a friend. It meant my mother would make chocolate santafereño —thick, with cheese melted at the bottom of the mug and a chunk of almojábana floating like a treasure.